The 10th iteration of Only Watch is scheduled for May 10, 2024, at Palexpo in Geneva, where Christie’s will auction off 47 exceptionally unique pieces.

The biannual charity auction was initially slated to be held on November 5 2023, until an investigation was called to look into the organization’s funds management. Under the hammer of Christie’s Geneva, Only Watch X continues the colorful theme based on the works of Hungarian-French Op art movement leader, Victor Vasarely.

Read on to discover the refreshed complete list of 47 unique timepieces for Only Watch 2024.

Angelus Chronodate Gold × Château Angelus

Angelus teamed up with their namesake in the wine industry, Château Angelus, for a one-of-a-kind admission to Only Watch. Château Angelus, one of Bordeaux’s most prestigious wines, serves as the inspiration for the Chronodate Gold, featuring a dial crafted from freeze-dried wine lees sourced from the estate’s 2022 vintage.

The Chronodate Gold × Château Angelus exemplifies the harmonious fusion of watchmaking and winemaking. The dial is composed of finely powdered wine lees, delicately deposited to create texture and color. The presence of a red-gold applique at 6 o’clock, depicting the Château’s bell, is another nod to the vineyard. 

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 60,000

ArtyA Purity Moissanite

ArtyA’s Only Watch entrant this year is the ID Purity Moissanite timepiece. This impressive number gives us not only a new architectural manufacture movement but also showcases a cutting-edge case material never used before in watchmaking.

The case is made of Moissanite — a stunning stone originating from a meteorite crater. With a hardness rating of 9.5 on the Mohs scale, Moissanite is the second hardest material on Earth, surpassed only by diamonds.

The faceted design of the Moissanite case gives the impression that the movement is floating within a perfectly cut gemstone, creating a captivating visual experience with an ever-changing symphony of colors.

Once you look past the chromatic case, there’s the Purity manufacture movement, the result of three years of close collaboration between ArtyA and Telos. The movement’s circular and layered bridges exemplify visual harmony and highlight the intricate craftsmanship of the skeletonized movement, all finished to a high degree, with sandblasted cast iron bridges and hand-beveled finishes. 

Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 50,000

Atelier de Chronometrie AdC30 Only Watch

Atelier de Chronométrie’s Only Watch, the AdC30, represents a significant step forward for the brand. Showcasing a new in-house caliber (M284), an enhanced case design, and a handmade dial crafted by the Barcelona-based team for the very first time, there’s a lot to like about this glimmering, 18K gray gold watch.

Note the enlarged stepped shape for the lugs, and the sandwich dial, all executed with Atelier de Chronométrie typical level of craft. The movement is impressive too — the M284 has a hand-frosted finish that draws inspiration from vintage calibers of the 1940s.

In addition there’s a range of other high-end finishes, including anglage, perlage, polished countersinks, straight graining, black polish and more. 

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 70,000

Baltic Experiments Premier Quantième Perpétual

Baltic entered the remarkable Premier Quantième Perpétuel, a collaborative creation with the experienced watchmakers at Maclef (led by Emmanuel Bouchet). It’s also worth noting the name on the dial ‘Baltic Experiments’, which marks the debut of the brand’s fine watchmaking line.

This watch is the result of an ambitious challenge to craft a highly legible and perfectly balanced Perpetual Calendar. The result is a slim 37mm timepiece that seamlessly blends steel and titanium.

With three sub-registers and a prominent pointer date, the watch is powered by the newly developed ultra-thin Vaucher 5401 micro-rotor movement with a new perpetual calendar module. The dial (whose vivid aubergine hue is a little more surprising) draws inspiration from mid-century watch design, and is elegant and readable.

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

Barbier-Mueller Mosaique II

Barbier-Mueller’s Mosaïque II is an extraordinary timepiece, made even more remarkable because it is, to date, the only collaboration F.P. Journe has been made. On top of that, the watch has employed the visionary design of Eric Giroud, with the exceptional craftsmanship of Les Cadraniers de Genève and Les Boîtiers de Genève.

The result is a 41mm platinum watch, with a mesmerizing mosaic of stones, to create a lotus flower that represents over 1000 hours of work, and incorporates 12 different métiers d’art techniques. The stones, set using the champlevé technique, adorn the dial, case middle and clamshell back, for a fully sculptural effect.

The watch is powered by Journe’s caliber 1304, completing this wrist-worn love letter to Geneva.

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 250,000

Bell & Ross BR 03 Cyber Rainbow

Bell & Ross always has fun with their Only Watch entries, herein presenting the BR 03 Cyber Rainbow. A ‘cyber’ take on their BR 03 design, this watch showcases avant-garde flair and vibrant colors.

The 3D skeleton movement with its oscillating weight and DLC micro-blasted metal bridges is adorned with varnish-filled pockets, filled in a riotous rainbow of colors. This polychromatic spree continues onto the titanium case, which offers a neon-stained glass look, achieved with even more varnish.

The effect even continues onto the rubber strap, which sees the bold pattern wrap around the wrist.

Estimate: CHF 45,000 – 55,000

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Piece Unique Only Watch

Blancpain pays homage to the iconic Fifty Fathoms timepiece with a special edition for Only Watch. Following the collection’s 70th anniversary last year, Blancpain presents a unique variation of the Act 1 model, featuring a captivating blue color scheme that symbolizes its connection to the ocean.

This unique piece features a blue unidirectional bezel made of scratch-resistant sapphire and a subtly graduated blue dial. The watch is accompanied by a blue NATO-style strap made from recycled nylon sourced from reclaimed fishing nets, contributing to environmental cleanup initiatives.

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

Bovet Orbis Mundi

Bovet has offered up a unique twist on the Orbis Mundi, showcasing a remarkable fusion of craftsmanship and functionality. Crafted from 18K red gold, this 42mm watch stands out with a magenta guilloché dial (achieved with seven layers of magenta lacquer) with a world time display that can be easily set using the crown.

In a nice nod to the charitable nature of this piece, the Only Watch home town of Monaco has a place on the dial, and the matching pink ‘X’ symbolizes the fact that this is the 10th installment of the series.

Estimate: CHF 52,000 – 65,000

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555

Breuget’s unique Hora Mundi watch boasts a unique and impressive mechanical complication — an instant-jump time-zone display. By simply selecting the first city’s time and date and setting the second city, the watch’s mechanism calculates and adjusts the time and date using a clever system of cams, hammers, and an integrated differential.

What makes this Marine Hora Mundi 5555 special, though, is the dial. Multiple layers and materials create depth and visual interest, with hand-guilloché waves on a gold base and a sapphire plate showcasing luminescent hour markers and engraved navy blue continents.

In this special 43.9mm gold edition, rose gold dots highlight Earth, symbolizing its continuous activity. 

Estimate: CHF 70,000 – 80,000

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble

The standout feature in the unique Octo Finissimo Tourbillon is the 40mm DLC treated titanium case and bracelet adorned with Verdi Alpi marble, applied in a layer only 0.5mm thick, across 110 facets. The dial is also treated with the stone in a 0.6mm layer, which opens to reveal the 1.95mm thin tourbillon.

Aside from the fact that it looks incredible, the stone, which is sourced from the Aosta Valley, the natural passage linking Switzerland and Italy through the Alps, is a symbolic link between the dual identities of Bvlgari’s watchmaking identity; the choice of material is inspired by the ancient use of marble in Roman architecture.

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 250,000

Chanel Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch

Chanel offers up not one, but two timepieces. A twin-set of contemporary takes on the J12, the Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch is realized in both black and white ceramic.

The ‘La Pausa’ name comes from a photograph of Mademoiselle Chanel in her garden at La Pausa; the watch dials feature her silhouette dressed in a striped jersey and sailor’s pants, delicately printed on a sapphire glass plate and placed on the dial.

The movements are the self-winding Caliber 12.1 movement, developed and produced by the Swiss Manufacture Kenissi, which is co-owned by Chanel. 

Estimate: CHF 40,000 – 50,000

Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Complicité — Courage Every Second

Now revealed, Czapek’s Place Vendôme Complicité — “Courage Every Second” showcases a reinterpretation of a double escapement combination, something you don’t see very often. It’s displayed in an open-worked configuration, with a champlevé enamel ring created in collaboration with Donzé Cadrans — the words “Courage Every Second” are inscribed on the réhaut.

The concept for this watch emerged as an evolution of Czapek’s previous models, Quai des Bergues and Place Vendôme, with a focus on respecting the positioning of the escapements and the central differential. Through a fortuitous connection between Xavier de Roquemaurel and watchmaker Bernhard Lederer, a collaboration was forged, leading to the realization of this exceptional timepiece.

Estimate: CHF 80,000 – 100,000

F. P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu

The Chronomètre Furtif Bleu ignites some favorite conversational topics all watch aficionados love to have: what our relationship with time is, and the emotional appeal of the modern luxury watch. Furtif translates to ‘stealth’ in English and here it refers to the dial crafted with translucent blue Grand Feu enamel.

Taking a completely oppositional route with legibility, Journe intends this watch as an ode to watch appreciation, since the indications can only be enjoyed by its wearer. The numerals and and minute track are laser-engraved and gestured via matt blue hands, barring the bright red seconds hand that’s the only feature clearly seen.

The moon phase and power reserve indication, too, are hidden away, located on the back of the watch, integrated with the movement, a gorgeous Caliber 1522 in 18K rose gold. This 42mm tantalum timepiece is worn on an elegant flat-link bracelet, with alternating sand-blasted and polished surfaces all around.

Estimate: CHF 200,000 – 400,000

Frederique Constant × Christiaan van der Klaauw Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 

Frederique Constant turns its flagship perpetual calendar tourbillon wristwatch into a pièce unique, but it comes with an unexpected twist: the perpetual calendar has been replaced by a planetarium created by Dutch independent watchmaker Christiaan van der Klaauw, positioned in lieu of the month register at 12 o’clock.

However, instead of featuring the conventional eight planets, this planetarium includes six. One fascinating detail is that the planetarium accurately displays the orbital period of each planet.

For example, the disc representing Saturn takes a full 29 years to complete a rotation. It marks the first time Frederique Constant features a planetarium in their timepiece, while Christiaan van der Klaauw incorporates a tourbillon for the first time as a result of this collaboration.

Estimate: CHF 90,000 – 110,000

Furlan Marri × Dominique Renaud × Julien Tixier — Secular Perpetual Calendar Pièce Unique

Furlan Marri ventured into new territory by presenting, for the first time, its own secular perpetual calendar watch, in collaboration with Dominique Renaud, co-founder of complication specialist Renaud & Papi (now part of Audemars Piguet), and Julien Tixier, a watchmaker specialised in prototyping. More importantly, this represents a breakthrough in creating a remarkably simple solution to a historically intricate complication, which is a significant achievement for the advancement of watchmaking.

The latest module in this watch has been improved to achieve efficiency and affordability, with the secular assembly comprising just 5 parts and the date module totaling 25 parts. We took a closer look at the watch when it was released last year, which you can read about here. 

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

gérald genta Only Watch 

Having been revived by the LVMH group, gérald genta is participating in the Only Watch event for the first time. For the charity auction, gérald genta has created a minute repeater with a retrograde minute hand and jumping hours, along with a signature octagonal case and a dial featuring Mickey Mouse.

Notably, the dial demonstrates traditional craftsmanship, as it is made of champlevé enamel. Interestingly, this marks the first time in gérald genta’s history that a Mickey Mouse dial is combined with the minute repeater complication, both being signatures of the brand. 

Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 500,000

Grönefeld 1941 Principia Mandala

The Dutch independent watchmaker unveiled a uniquely vibrant version of its entry-level automatic wristwatch. The 1941 Principia Mandala showcases a mesmerizing mandala design incorporating 16 vivid colors, which holds auspicious symbolism.

Additionally, the case back has been dressed up for the occasion with a hunter case back. Notably, the inside of the case back is engraved with portraits of Bart and Tim, the founders of Grönefeld, along with their father, Sjef.

Estimate: CHF 55,000 – 65,000

H. Moser & Cie. × MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have once again collaborated to create a one-of-a-kind timepiece for Only Watch. This time, they have chosen Moser’s iconic Streamliner integrated bracelet sports watch as their canvas, injecting it with an extra dose of fun.

One can’t miss this exciting feature: a miniature panda DJ against a vibrant aquamarine blue fumé dial. It runs on a one-off movement developed exclusively for this timepiece, a three-dimensional hand-wound caliber.

Estimate CHF 300,000 – 400,000

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyager Only Watch

Similar to other dual-time zone watches, the Le Temps Voyager displays the local time in a 12-hour format and the home time in a 24-hour format. However, what sets it apart is the unique presentation of the 12-hour local time.

By using a pusher on the left side, the wearer can easily synchronize it with one of the 24 time zones represented by the cities on the ring. Additionally, the sub-dial that indicates the 12-hour local time gracefully moves around the dial as time passes.

This year, Hermes has given the watch a makeover with the colors of the rainbow, adding striking bursts of brightness to the black-on-black case and dial combination.

Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 40,000

Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire

Continuing their fruitful collaboration with artist Takashi Murakami, Hublot presents the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire, in a case made entirely of clear sapphire in the shape of twelve petals set with 444 gemstones. But the MP-15 goes beyond aesthetics with Hublot’s first-ever central flying tourbillon movement.

The watch boasts a power reserve of 150 hours. 

Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 400,000

Jaquet Droz The Rolling Stones Automaton

Jaquet Droz leverages its strength in automatons in creating the Only Watch Rolling Stones Automaton. Departing from the classical depictions of flora and fauna found on its past watches, the brand presents a dial featuring a vibrant display of musical instruments used by the rock band.

But what sets it apart is the unconventional and eye-catching use of super trippy colors found on both the time sub-dial and the outer dial. The outer dial, functioning as an automaton, can rotate upon activation through the pusher on the crown. This whimsical color scheme is accompanied by the iconic tongue figure associated with the band.

Estimate: CHF 250,000 – 300,000

Konstantin Chaykin Joker Sandmann Only Watch 2024 Pièce Unique

Konstantin Chaykin introduces the Joker Sandmann as a bold interpretation of the iconic Joker character, featuring an open-worked dial and a retrograde day display symbolizing the character’s grin. Chaykin’s focus is on crafting an intricate dial that showcases hours, minutes, and the day of the week.

The Joker Sandmann stands out with its avant-garde case in authentic “Bulat” stainless steel, complemented by an anthropomorphic dial design. The watch’s movement features traditional gold-plated and frosted bridges, along with meticulously finished steel components like levers, springs, and a snail eccentric, adding a touch of classic elegance to this contemporary piece. 

Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 50,000

Krayon Anywhere Only Watch 2023

Krayon presents its impressive Anywhere wristwatch, a seemingly simple timepiece with incredible complexity. It has the ability to accurately display the sunrise and sunset times for a specific location, as programmed by the watchmakers at Krayon’s workshop, tailored to the winner’s chosen destination.

The two-color ring surrounding the painted center symbolizes the length of a day, dynamically changing with the seasons. The light blue segment represents daytime, while the dark blue segment signifies nighttime, with the intersection between the two indicating the precise moments of sunrise and sunset.

To commemorate this special occasion, the center part of the dial features a miniature painting that reimagines the Coastal Scene by the renowned Belgian painter Théo van Rysselberghe. Rather than replicating the painting in exact detail, the artwork captures the distinctive brushstrokes that define the original piece. 

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 250,000

Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto On Track

For Only Watch, Laurent Ferrier seizes the opportunity to pay homage to the iconic race car event, Le Mans, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. In doing so, they present their renowned integrated-bracelet sports watch with a unique twist.

This unique Sport Auto “On Track” boldly embraces a vibrant array of colors, resembling a racing track encircling the dial. 

Estimate: CHF 55,000 – 85,000

Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

The Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is an exceptional timepiece that incorporates an advanced natural escapement, boasting twin escape wheels and a twin gear train. Livening up the intricately technical canvas are bright green accents on its black-coated movement.

Although this may seem unusual for such a traditional watch, the color is applied using luminescent painting, resulting in an eye-catching glow in the dark. Notably, the movement is presented in its full glory on the front, with the hours and minutes hands also displayed on the same side of the movement.

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 200,000

Louis Moinet Art-Tech

The Louis Moinet Art-Tech is a strictly traditional watch with a hand-wound tourbillon movement. In similar fashion to the Lederer timepiece, its dial is immediately distinguishable with its vibrant color palette and intricate dial pattern.

There’s use of laser engraving on a silicon wafer, a technique that only a few brands have explored in watchmaking. This approach creates an iridescent surface, showcasing a captivating play of light and adding a unique character to the watch.

Estimate: CHF 80,000 – 120,000

Louis Vuitton Tambour Einstein Automata Only Watch 2023

Louis Vuitton debuts a creative makeover of its signature Tambour watch, resulting in the Tambour Einstein Automata (without the minute repeater) featuring an enamel dial. However, instead of depicting an object or a landscape, the dial portrays the physicist Albert Einstein, renowned for his realisation that time is not absolute but rather relative.

The dial incorporates both enamelling and engraving techniques, creating a visually striking depth. Notably, the portrait of Einstein is executed in grisaille enamel, a seldom-seen method that involves layering lighter enamel on a dark base.

This technique results in a monochromatic painting, making it more challenging to convey intricate details due to the absence of colours.

The time-telling mechanism is as playful as the dial suggests. In fact, time can only be read when the automata are activated.

The retrograde minute hand springs into action at seven o’clock, while the hour numerals replace the current formula in the top-right aperture. Additionally, as the equations change on the dial, Einstein’s tongue playfully sticks out, completing the distinctive portrait.

Estimate: CHF 340,000 – 440,000

Ludovic Ballouard X Brittany Nicole Cox Upside Down Blue Feather

If you don’t know Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down by now, then you’ve been missing out on this whimsical time-telling display. The watch’s ingenious hour markers rotate from the upside-down to the upright position, indicating the current hour.

Placed near the dial edge, these markers create a spacious center, providing an ideal canvas for artistic embellishments.

Therefore for Only Watch, Ballouard collaborated with esteemed antiquarian horologist and guilloche artist, Britally Nicole Cox, to create a guilloche dial. Here, the guilloche pattern is entirely new and distinctive, mimicking the graceful vertical lines of flying birds as described by the artist. 

Estimate: CHF 60,000 – 90,000

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Only Watch

Maurice Lacroix presents a unique Masterpiece, showcasing a skeletonized in-house movement in, what could possibly be the brand’s first, a sapphire crystal case. With a diameter of 43mm, the case shows off a clear view of the manually-wound Manufacture Calibre ML330 inside.

The balance wheel is prominently positioned at eight o’clock, with time-telling sub-dials positioned on the right side of the dial. Time is indicated on an off-centre dial featuring black indexes, each coated with Super-LumiNova in different colors.

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000

Montblanc 1858 Géosphère 0 Oxygen CARBO2 Only Watch

Montblanc’s unique Géosphère sports CARBO2, an innovative new case material. It’s created via a pioneering technological development that captures CO2 and mixes it with ultra-light carbon fiber. Sized at a robust 43mm, it comes with a luminous glacier blue outline of Mount Everest on the side, with the complete visual on the caseback.

Inside, the Montblanc automatic caliber MB29.25 provides the time as well as the manufacture’s signature world time display simultaneously showing the Northern and Southern hemispheres. The buyer of this unique timepiece will also receive an ice pick from Montblanc Mark Maker, the world record-breaking alpinist, Nimsdai Purja, plus a handwritten note from Purja, delivered with the watch in an ice-like capsule.

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000

Moritz Grossmann Tremblage Only Watch

Moritz Grossmann’s Only Watch champions the art of tremblage, a technique that involves manually finishing a surface using a variety of engraving tools (called burins) that move across the metal surface in a trembling or shaking motion, hence the name derived from the French word ‘tremblant,’ which means ‘to tremble’ in English.

Herein is executed on a German silver dial, which then undergoes a galvanizing process. The surface is then rhodium-plated, adding a tint that enhances the tremblage engraving. Subsequently, the raised elements of the dial such as numerals, indices, the manufacturer’s logo, and the inscriptions ‘Only Watch’ and ‘Made in Germany’ undergo a delicate brushing finish. 

Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 45,000

Patek Philippe Ref. 6301A-010

The Patek Philippe Ref. 6301A-010 represents a distinctive steel variant of the Grande and Petite Sonnerie, Minute Repeater model specially contributed to Only Watch. Its dial showcases à la Rare Handcrafts with a hand-guilloched swirling pattern visible beneath a Grand Feu blue-green enamel that was achieved via the flinqué enamel technique.

Adorned with 12 baguette-cut diamond hour markers (totaling 0.45 ct), the dial also features a transfer-printed “only one” inscription. Movement-wise, the manually wound caliber GS 36-750 PS IRM boasts a Grande and Petite Sonnerie along with a minute repeater that chimes on three traditional gongs.

This movement incorporates two patented innovations related to the striking mechanism and another pertaining to the jumping small seconds mechanism.

Estimate: CHF 30,000 – 45,000

Petermann Bédat × Auffret Paris Chronomètre D’observatoire

This double-signed time-only watch exhibits distinctive elements from the partnership on the movement-side: Petermann Bédat’s design principles are evident in its swan-neck regulator system (and the case), while Auffret Paris left its mark in the click system and the charbonnage on the bridges’ surface.

The dial is made from flame-whitened solid silver, engraved, and decorated with rose gold indexes. Rose gold is also used for the hour and minute hands, while the seconds hand is crafted from flame-blued steel. 

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 100,000

Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty

Piaget presents an ultra-thin skeletonised Polo in gold, while dressing it in a lively colorway consisting of green, blue and rose gold all over the bridges of its Caliber 1200S1; it draws inspiration from Victor Vasarely’s “Hexa Grace” artwork, currently displayed in Monaco.

The exceptionally slim movement, with a thickness of just 2.4mm, is encased in a 42mm diameter rose-gold case that is a mere 6.5mm thick. This distinctive Piaget Polo Skeleton Arty timepiece comes with a blue interchangeable strap, specially designed for Only Watch.

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 80,000

Reservoir × Telos Watch Edition Only Watch Tiefenmesser Tourbillon

Taking inspiration from nautical measuring instruments of the last century — think depth gauges abroad submarines, compasses, and the like — Reservoir and Telos together present a unique Tiefenmesser Tourbillon, of which marks Reservoir’s very first tourbillon in a timepiece. Within the bronze case is a regulator-type white enamel dial that displays a jumping hour time display with a 240-degree retrograde minute hand.

Through the open case back, one will find more tributes to old marine instruments, such as the oscillating weight in brass and engraved with indications found on engine controls of old submarines. The buyer of this timepiece will also be invited to visit the Telos Watch atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, joined by Reservoir founder François Moreau.

Estimate: CHF 50,000 – 60,000

Ressence Type 1 Squared Only Watch 

Ressence presents this unique DNA-inspired dial symbolising the pursuit of a cure — let’s explain. Representing genetic anomaly, the dial features a blue painted DNA chain against a silver background, with Ressence’s signature revolving discs forming part of the picture.

Every Sunday at midnight, all the discs align to depict a healthy DNA chain, sparking hope for a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The Type 1 Squared Only Watch is made in 41mm polished grade 5 titanium, and has a double-domed sapphire crystal top.

Estimate: CHF 20,000 – 30,000

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique

Since revealing his special magnetism-resistant chronometer, we’ve had conversations with Rexhepi himself, such as an interview that you can watch here, as well as an in-depth analysis of this elaborate construction that you can read about here.

So here’s a summary of his Only Watch entry. It’s a timepiece that’s both a tribute to historical antimagnetic chronometers and a practical timekeeper for modern life, offering magnetism protection using a quaint yet highly effective solution: a Faraday cage. This involves placing the movement within a wire mesh construct known as a Faraday cage, which serves to provide resistance against electric fields.

The original movement is housed within a 38mm stainless steel case made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s workshop. Besides being the new owner of this unique timepiece, the fortunate buyer will be offered a private guided tour of Geneva old town with a specialist historian, along with a tour of Atelier Akrivia and lunch with Rexhepi himself.

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 150,000

Richard Mille Talisman Origine RM S14

Continuing with artistic director Cécile Guenat, this unique piece by Richard Mille evokes the power of historical relics of a bygone era and the spiritual beauty surrounding ancient folklore … except that the present is actually the distant past, for the Talisman Origine RM S14 prompts you to delve into your imagination and consider an alternative reality where you’ve time-travelled thousands of years into the future. 

Designed to be worn around the neck, incorporating a talisman motif to the dial and movement construction, the watch’s red gold case and necklace is fully hand engraved and integrates rhodonite, marble and Swiss grapevine wood set on Grade 5 titanium threaded on metal and rubber string.

Estimate: CHF 600,000 – 800,000

Singer Reimagined × Genus 8-Track Watch for Only Watch

The pièce unique 8-Track Watch for Only Watch features a hefty 43mm cushion-shaped case in stainless steel (with a height of 15.46mm), draws creative codes from iconic watches of the 60s and 70s — undoubtedly some of the most beautiful years for motor racing. It even has an 18K gold micro-sculpture that moves along the infinity 8-shaped track.

Everything that sits under the sapphire crystal is all part of the Genus GxS-23-Ru movement — a deeply mesmerizing caliber that uses rotating number discs in place of conventional hour and minute hands for which two patents have been filed. The winning bidder of this timepiece also gets to enjoy a one-of-a-kind experience at a motorsport event of his or her choice: the Goodwood Festival of Speed 2024 or Monterey Car Week 2024 at the Laguna Seca Raceway.

Estimate: CHF 100,000 – 120,000

Speake Marin Ripples Blue Royal

Emphasizing the emotional significance of time, Speake Marin intended the Ripples Blue Royal as a radiant tribute of hope. That distinct and characteristic blue you’re seeing is a first for the brand’s model, with a hand-crafted wave pattern design of Stéphane Lacroix’s own, and achieved through the meticulous process of blue PVD with a galvanic underlayer.

Exclusively for Only Watch, Speake Marin crafts the 40.3mm case in stainless steel, and uses this material for the Caliber SMA03-T20 movement as well. The Only Watch 2023 engraving on its case back was done by master engraver Boris Nemitz.

Estimate: CHF 35,000 – 65,000

Sylvain Pinaud Origine – Only Watch Edition

Much ink has already been spilled about Sylvain Pinaud’s magnificent Origine, with its stunning extra-long balance bridge and extra-large 13.2mm diameter balance wheel. This proudly handmade watch was first presented in 2022 at the AHCI exhibition in L’iceBergues, and expresses Pinaud’s personal philosophy in watchmaking where all components can be made using traditional machinery.

For Only Watch, Pinaud designed a one-off model that includes two things that always spark passionate discussions among watch lovers: guilloché and flame-bluing. He offers a beautiful two-tone dial decorated with traditional guilloche in a personal and contemporary pattern.

Special attention was also paid to the different shades of blue used for the off-centered dial and seconds display. Traditional flame-bluing is done on the hands as well as parts of the balance bridge, but just very discreetly.

Other details not to be missed are the frosted finish on the base plate, beautifully bevelled edges, and black polishing around the balance bridge and steel cartouche.

Estimate: CHF 70,000 – 100,000

TAG Heuer Monaco Rattrapante Only Watch

TAG Heuer’s first-ever rattrapante chronograph as a pièce unique for Only Watch has since seen limited series produced in two variations presented at Watches & Wonders in Geneva this year. For this piece, the TAG Heuer team took inspiration from the original model of 1969 while imbuing it with a contemporary aesthetic based on an avant-garde mindset.

Look at the case, which is made of texturized titanium, a material crafted in the TAG Heuer Institute specifically for this timepiece. Strong lines and crisp edges highlight the massive sapphire crystal and case back.

The movement, created in collaboration with Vaucher, is the Caliber TH81-00 constructed in titanium. Ceramic crown, pushers and protectors further underscore its technical spirit.

And the cherry on top? The buyer of this unique timepiece will also be invited on an all-expenses paid trip to the 2024 Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix.

Estimate: CHF 150,000 – 300,000

Tiffany & Co. Bird On A Rock Mechanical Pendant Watch

Tiffany & Co. selected the perfect object to highlight three important messages: Firstly, its unassailable jewelry crafting savoir-faire; next, its beautiful history and heritage with Parisian-American designer Jean Schlumberger, and finally, its imaginative ability to marry jewelry with other product universes, as seen with this pièce unique pendant watch.

Fans of the American jeweller will immediately recognize the famous Bird on a Rock motif perched nonchalantly atop the yellow gold case with a beautiful faceted light blue aquamarine (over 34 carats) performing the role of watch’s crystal. Complete with a snow-set diamond dial, it offers a mechanical movement and is worn on a yellow gold and diamond chain.

Estimate: CHF 350,000 – 500,000

Trilobe Réconciliation

Inspired by the Japanese art of kintsugi, the Trilobe Réconciliation embodies the philosophy of embracing life’s imperfections. In this new version of the iconic Une Folle Journée, impact marks on the rings and movement are manually cut and chiselled by a craftsman watchmaker.

The same pair of hands also applied the hammered finish on the bridges, plate and symbolic rings. Finally, the cavities are gilded by hand using fine 22K gold.

With a 40.5mm diameter, the watch is cased in titanium with mirror polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments. Its domed bezel with sapphire crystal arch over concentric rings of blackened titanium offering a spectacular view of the movement, Caliber X-Centric with micro rotor.

Estimate: CHF 25,000 – 35,000

Urwerk Space-Time Blade for Only Watch

Here’s one for all the self-professed watch nerds out there. Urwerk has set out to redefine the essence of time as you’ve never seen it before, allowing you to literally wield the hours, minutes, seconds and more with your own two hands.

Indeed, the Space-Time Blade not only displays the time but also the distance of Earth’s spinning (in kilometres). Its creation was achieved in collaboration with nixie tube craftsman Dalibor Farny whose extraordinary talent blends artistry and precision.

Nixie tubes are also known as cold cathode displays where a wire-mesh anode and multiple cathodes shaped like numerals are encased within glass tubes. Here, Urwerk and Farny have jointly created a glass capsule of approximately 2 meters, set on a bronze pedestal functioning effectively as the hilt of this incredible horological object.

Estimate: CHF 45,000 – 80,000

Voutilainen CSW Only Watch

The majority of Voutilainen’s watches are typically designed with round cases — with three exceptions. The rectangular Chronomètre 27, the barrel-cased Tonneau and a single-piece pocket watch from 2019 co-created by Kari and Venla.

It was this third timepiece with a cushion-shaped case was the one that inspired the father-and-daughter team to create their unique piece for charity, the CSW Only Watch.

Made of titanium, with light satin finish and polished surfaces, it features a completely new world time caliber, TMZ217, which is an evolution from the previous Vingt-8 caliber. Pressing the crown conveniently allows you to adjust the world time mechanism.

The 39mm × 39mm case is secured by four screws on both sides, but nothing is going to take any attention away from the beautiful silver dial in a vibrant green hue. Guilloché decorated with a center trivague along with sunburst finishing on the outer ring, this is an amazing timepiece for modern collectors of independent watches.

Estimate: CHF 175,000 – 215,000

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Only Watch Set

A set of four Chronomaster Sport models espouse a colorful and sporty spirit for Only Watch, with each reference featuring a coloured ceramic bezel in yellow, green, blue and red in matching dials. Notably, red and yellow ceramic bezels are a first for the manufacture.

Providing 1/10th of a second accuracy is one of Zenith’s all-time classics, the El Primero 3600 automatic column-wheel chronograph movement.

Estimate: CHF 45,000 – 55,000

Where We’re At After the Initial Only Watch Investigation

On 4th October 2023, the global watch industry was riveted by a social media post shared by Santa Laura, one of the most prominent watch collectors in the world. He posted an open criticism of Only Watch and how the charity organization had fallen short in terms of financial transparency. 

This came just a little over a month before the 2023 Only Watch auction was set to put a record 62 unique watches under the hammer. 

This prompted Only Watch to look more closely at the matter and the organization released a letter to the watch industry dated 8th October, sharing a financial overview, its accounting audit and legal obligations, and the corporate structure of SQY Therapeutics.

Following which, parent organization AMM (Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies) announced the appointment of a well-known Monaco auditor and partner of KPMG Monaco, Bettina Ragazzoni, as its official auditor. Ms Ragazzoni is also General Treasurer of the Monegasque Red Cross and plays a similar role for the Yacht Club de Monaco.

Both institutions are chaired by Prince Albert of Monaco and managed by members of his family. 

On 17th April, the charity organization made a statement on Instagram, saying, “We are grateful for all who have enabled the AMM/Only Project to have the impact it does in financing fundamental and applied research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy and related genetic diseases. This 10th edition comes at a crucial moment; funds raised will enable new milestones in clinical developments and provide support for tens of new research projects on myopathies and genetic diseases and create hope for thousands of patients and their families.”